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Matsubara Kyogoku shopping street, the gateway to Gojo Tenjinja Shrine. There is a lively face-to-face store that draws a long line at lunchtime. It is Maruki Bakery, established in 1947. They have been producing popular breads such as the ever-popular ham rolls that Kyoto residents must have come across at least once.
From left, Katsu Roll 250 yen, containing a thickly sliced ham cutlet about 20 cm long. Anpan 180 yen, sandwiched with homemade red bean paste made simply with homemade azuki beans finished to a Hokkaido pull. Ham roll sandwiched with boneless ham, crispy cabbage and reduced sour mayonnaise 200 yen
Mr. Kimoto, the owner, says, "I have always loved New Bird here. After marrying my wife, my first father-in-law became ill, and suddenly I became the second generation. I started from scratch," he says. He says that he has continued the simple, old-fashioned manufacturing process while learning from his father-in-law as well. In the past, high school girls from the neighborhood would come to the store en masse at lunchtime, and Kimoto says, "I thought that as long as I made koppeban, I wouldn't have any trouble as long as I put the ingredients of my choice in between (laughs). Then, he says, his homemade anpan, cutlet rolls, and other breads became popular, with customers wanting to eat a different loaf every day.
Every day from 4:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., they bake about 1,000 cobbler buns several times a day. Inside the store, energetic staff members come and go, spreading butter on the surface one after another and inserting fillings into the coppé bread. The reason for the long lines and the quick turnaround is the lightheartedness of the bakery. The koppebuns are made in a fluid flow, with a simple, additive-free bread taste that no one else can imitate. You may be so captivated by the taste that you will go out to buy koppeban again today.
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