My goal is to carry on the taste of my master," says Mr. Sugano. Mr. Ito, the owner of Yamanekataken, whom Mr. Sugano calls his mentor, taught him not only the taste and techniques, but also the way of thinking about food itself.

It is a revival of old Western, Eastern, and Japanese dishes," he said. We are also looking at the way food should be.

The background of the ingredients is also a focus. For example, eggs are made from feed originally eaten by chickens, thereby thoroughly eliminating any odor. The cooking methods also go back to the basics, such as using Edo period knife techniques to prepare fish.

The 11-course menu includes dishes such as Mishima beef, Japan's first cow dating back 1,400 years and designated as a natural treasure, and bowls of suppon (a type of fish), which are rarely seen in Japan.

We hope to become the kind of restaurant that people who don't normally think about going out to eat would want to come all the way here. We ask our customers to refrain from taking pictures at the restaurant, and we would be happy if they could enjoy the pure taste of our food. The restaurant offers one or two types of sake, sparkling wine, white wine, and red wine that do not interfere with the food.